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Soper's hole-text

Entering Soper's Hole

Frenchman's Cay (pronounced, key) lies just south of the western end of Tortola, and forms a very secure harbor. A ferry terminal here provides service to the U.S. Virgin Islands. Upscale homes, many owned by expatriates from all over the world, sprinkle the islands. We spent our second night here.


Charlie waits to catch the mooring ball.

Charlie waits to catch the mooring ball.

Tuna runs the dingy.

Tuna powers the dingy. The ferry terminal is in the background.

Soper's Hole is a snug marina formed by the west end of Tortola Island and Frenchman's Cay. It offers many services to boaters and tourists, including a grocery store, shops, dive shop and a Pussers Bar/Restaurant. Pussers is sort of the Senior Frog of the British Virgin Islands, only perhaps more upscale. The best harbors on the islands all seem to feature Pussers facilities. They are usually very attractive, and provide an almost Disneyland appearance to the islands. The down side is that they detach the boaters and tourists from the local culture, requiring that one make an effort to get beyond the marina area to see local life and activity. Having said that, I really found Soper's Hole picturesque, and indeed, it was handy for buying ice and a few groceries to supplement our stock.



Tugboats, new and old, lie in the back corner of Soper's Hole. These homes probably house local residents. When a young couple is ready to build their first house, the government will sell them a building site for $700. Depending on their assets, they use a builder, or friends, to help them build their home. Most homes are cinder block, which stands up well to passing hurricanes and discourages insects. Homes tend to be painted in pastel colors, which provides a nice continuity throughout the islands.


Happy hour with Anita.

Anita and BB on French Maid.



Ed holding a dead fish.

So, Ed and BB come by with a fish, which they give to Tuna.


Tuna kisses the fish.

Tuna accepts the fish and poses, jubilantly, for the camera. The problem is that the fish was at least a week old, and a distinctive odor reminded us of that fact for the rest of the day.


Wet exit from dinghy

Dinghy Tip
Dinghys are light and easily displaced. Getting in may feel unstable. So, Try this:
1. Step smartly and confidently into the bow of the dinghy. The dinghy may move quickly sideways, but don't worry.
2. As you fall backwards, allow one foot to slip under the hand loop on the bottom of the dinghy and become lodged.
3. Your upper body will quickly tumble backwards and become immersed in water, but don't worry, your foot is attached to the dinghy.
4. Wave your arms vigorously, and a friend will jump into the dinghy and release your foot, but don't worry.
5. Let your whole body slide gently into the water.
6. Swim to the ladder and climb smartly and confidently into the boat.
7. Repeat steps 1 through 6.


Charlie tieing up the dingy.

Charlie tying up the dingy at Pussers Village in Soper's Hole.


A shop at Soper's Hole.

A gift shop at Soper's Hole.



Palm tree at Soper's Village.

A palm tree and pastel colors add to the charm of Soper's Hole.


Don at Soper't Hole

Don enjoying the activity at Soper's Hole.


Soper's grocery store.

Leaving Soper's village with some supplemental groceries.



Ed on French Maid.

Ed taking it easy on French Maid.


We take it easy on Syros.

And we take it easy on Syros.


Sunset at Soper's Hole

Sunset at Soper's Hole.